Interior painting involves surface planning as closely as outer painting would. Today, the invention of odorless paints makes painting every time of the year. Formerly, much of the home ‘s interior painting was completed in the fall or spring when the windows could be left open to ventilate the air. Yet open windows were carrying dust into the space to ruin the polished surface texture.Have a look at Chantilly Interior Painting for more info on this.
A good paint job in the interior is often 50 percent preparation and 50% painting. Do not rush in your eagerness to get at the brush or roller to prepare the surfaces. Unless the materials are not well designed you will be back after a few months for the paint brush or roller.
In this section you will find the necessary information on applying various types of paints to different interior wall , ceiling and floor materials.
Fresh dry plaster in good quality that is to be completed with a paint other than water paint should be given a primer-sealer coat and be permitted to cure fully before being checked for appearance uniformity. In the case of tinted primers, variations in gloss and color differences indicate whether or not the entire surface was completely sealed. If not, otherwise a second primer-sealer coat will be added. If only a few “suction spots” are visible, then a second coat may be sufficient over these areas.
A smooth, semi-gloss, or high-gloss finish may be added to the surface of the priming. Two coats of flat-wall paint will accompany the priming coat for a smooth finish. A layer of flat wall paint and a layer of semi-gloss paint can be added onto the polished surface with a semi-gloss coating. One layer of semi-gloss paint and one layer of high-gloss enamel will be added over the priming coat for a high-gloss finish.
They should be sized before applying calcimine-type water paints to new plastered walls, using either a glue-water size or, if the plaster is dry, a thin varnish or primer-sealer.
Cold water paints of the casein form can either be added immediately to a plastered surface, or a primer-sealer coat may be provided to the surface first to account for irregular suction impact. The same happens to resin-emulsion paints, where the chemical manufacturer’s guidelines are granted special consideration while in question. Because resin-emulsion paints typically have some oil in the binder, they can generally only be added to plaster that has completely dried out.
Wall paints with color can often be used on plaster surfaces. The benefits of this style of painting are that one coat renders a textured decoration effectively and relieves the monotony of smooth flat color. It also more fully covers holes or gaps in the mortar than regular wall paint. The disadvantages to texture wall painting are that they collect dust and are challenging to return to a smooth finish. Such products are available as water- or oil-based paints, are finer than ordinary wall paints, and can be added on both wallboard and plaster on create textured results such as wild, French, project, and multicolored.
Wallboard design typically does not pose any specific painting problems provided the standard measures are followed, such as making sure that the surface is smooth and clear of grease and oil. The wallboard painting procedure is the same as for plaster; it requires a coat of priming and sealing followed by whatever finishes coats are desired, or a one-coat flat or resin-emulsion type paint may be given.
Water-thinned paint should be added on wallpapers that are firmly stuck to the wall that do not include colors that could spill through the paint. For paint application one layer of wallpaper is preferred. Paints other than water-thin form may also be added to wallpaper by following the instructions provided for plaster painting. Wallpaper covered with such a pigment, though, is hard to clean without damage to the plaster.
Timber Walls and Cutting
When painting or varnishing new interior walls and wood trim will be smoothed with sandpaper and dusted. The surface may be treated with linseed oil, varnished or shellacquered, and waxed to conserve wood grain. If an opaque finish is required, it is necessary to use semi-gloss paint thinned with 1 pint of turpen-tine per gallon of paint, or the priming sealer previously described for walls as a wood coat. One or two coats of semi-gloss paint should then be added over the fully dried prime coat, or the last coat should be a high-gloss enamel, if a full-gloss finish is needed.